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Tech Geek and More

Technology Explained for All

AD IDrive Remote Backup

Software: Android Users–Amazon Appstore Free App of the Day is Office Suite 5 Professional (10/26/11)

android   These days one of the most import things you will need is the ability to view and even edit documents sent to you in Microsoft Word or Microsoft Excel format. I know when I got my HTC Evo, all that I got was a very limited program (DocToGo) that would allow me to view files, but not actually do any editing. If I wanted editing features, I would need to pay to buy the full version.  For various reasons, up to now, I have only kept the limited viewer, never bothering to do the upgrade. 

     Things changed today, as I discovered that the Amazon Appstore Free App of the day is Office Suite 5 Professional. Here is information on the app, from the (LINK) Amazon (http://www NULL.amazon NULL.com/gp/product/B0051UP5NQ/180-5621455-7084817?ie=UTF8&ref=mas_faad) page

 

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Product Description

Just in case you need to bring the office home with you, OfficeSuite Pro is a complete feature-rich mobile office. When you can’t get it done between nine to five, OfficeSuite Pro makes your job as efficient and painless as possible.

 

Full-Featured Office

This office productivity suite has everything you need from mobile office software. With OfficeSuite Pro, access tools for word processing, developing spreadsheets, delivering presentations, and browsing PowerPoint and PDF files. Create, view, and edit Microsoft Word and Excel files.

 

Google Docs Integration

The software features the most commonly used desktop document formats and includes a File Browse. The integration with Google Docs allows you to access your remotely stored documents.

 

Compatibility

The program supports Microsoft Office 97 to 2010 text documents – DOC and DOCX (open , edit, and save), Microsoft Office 97 to 2010 spreadsheets – XLS and XLSX (open , edit, and save), opening PPT, PPTX, PPS, and PPSX presentations, PDF files viewing, and integration with Google Docs

    

     I have been using the app this morning (I know not a long test period), and found overall that it works well both viewing and editing Word and Excel, and also works well  

viewing a PowerPoint presentation with the app. The only thing I have noticed at issue (and I see it listed by a few people in the comments area) is that in Excel when using formulas in a cell, that the cell didn’t always show properly. 

     The Office Suite 5 Professional app is normally valued at $14.99, can be downloaded for free directly from your phone if you have the Amazon App Store installed, or by visiting the (LINK) Amazon (http://www NULL.amazon NULL.com/mobile-apps/b?ie=UTF8&node=2350149011) page**.

 

**Unfortunately the Amazon App Store is only available in the U.S.

Software: Online Backup for your WordPress site data (Free)

WordPress-Introduction-icon_big-en  One of the most import things to have when dealing with any kind of computer data is a GOOD BACKUP!  Doesn’t matter if we are talking about your tablet, Windows PC, Mac, Linux pc. In addition, for those of us who run and manage online blog sites, backing up the site is also a necessary step to protect our work. A website can go down by many reasons from hardware/software issues at your host, to hackers trying to cause issues. Here is a solution to backup your site if you are a WordPress user, offered for Free by iDrive.

The best backup is the one that takes the least amount of work to complete, because the more you have to do, the more likely you are to skip doing it. Tech Geek and More has been using (LINK) iDrive (http://www NULL.idrive NULL.com) for a number of years now.  In addition, iDrive (http://www NULL.idrive NULL.com/?p=techgeekandmore) is a (paid) partner for Tech Geek and More for the past year.

iDrive has now released a free plugin (and who doesn’t like FREE) for WordPress that will on a nightly basis, back up your WordPress account into an iDrive account with 5 GB’s of space.

 

From the (LINK) iDrive (http://www NULL.idrive NULL.com/wordpress NULL.htm) site

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“IDrive Plug-in for WordPress is an easy to use backup utility, designed specifically to backup WordPress blog data into your IDrive online backup account. It provides scheduled as well as immediate backup of WordPress blog data including files and MySQL database dump”

Features

  • Immediate backup of WordPress blog data, both files as well as MySQL data dump, into your IDrive online backup account
  • Scheduled backups occur after 12 midnight every day
  • Immediate restore of backed up data from your IDrive online backup account
  • Smart backup – Only the first backup transfers entire WordPress content, subsequent backups are incremental where only the modified data is backed up
  • Automatic notification via email on backup / restore status
  • Secure transfer of data to IDrive server using SSL. Non SSL transfer option is also available for non SSL servers
  • Detailed logging of backup / restore operations

     To install this plug-in just find it from your plug-in section in the dashboard section of your WP install and select install.

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Once installed, you will need to sign up for a new iDrive account (did I mention this one is free).  *If you already have an account with iDrive for your pc backup, that account will not work for the plug in.

Once the plug-in is installed and activated, just go to the plug-in and click where it says “Click here” (as shown below) to set up your account.

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Once your account is set up, you have a choice of doing an initial backup at that moment or just waiting for the regular scheduled backup.

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I ran the backup initially just after install, and I did not find any down time for Tech Geek and More, while the backup was running.

One of the biggest advantages of using iDrive is the snapshot feature.  This is a feature that they also include in the regular PC/Mac version of iDrive.

What are snapshots? (From the iDrive (http://www NULL.idrive NULL.com/online_faq_wordpress NULL.htm#q10) site)

Your IDrive for WordPress online account retains copies of your WordPress data for the last 10* days using the snapshots technology. A snapshot is an image of the backup data taken at a particular point of time, once everyday.

What this means is that you will have the last 10* days of your WordPress data in your account in the form of snapshots. Each snapshot will have data from the last backup performed for that particular day. This is useful if your WordPress blog data is corrupted by any means (hacks, bugs etc.).

You can restore any file, database dump, or even the entire blog from any previous snapshot and start your blog again.

Snapshots show up as folders having names like ‘BackUp_nightly.0_*’, ‘BackUp_nightly.9_*’ etc. ‘BackUp_nightly.0_*’ represents yesterday’s snapshot. ‘BackUp_nightly.9_*’ represents the snapshot taken 10 days back.

The additional storage requirements for Snapshots have no impact on your account quota usage.

* The number of days for which Snapshots are stored may change without notice.

 

And lastly important information for those considering using iDrive

System Requirements
  • WordPress 2.8.5 or higher hosted on a Linux / Unix system. WordPress blog hosted on a Windows system is not supported
  • JavaScript enabled web browser – IE, Safari, Firefox, Chrome
  • Admin access to WordPress dashboard to activate the Plug-in
  • PHP 5.1 or higher

Web: How to Import an evite to Facebook Events

evite facebook

     A question I’ve gotten a lot recently involves the ability to send out an (LINK) Evite (http://new NULL.evite NULL.com/#home) and then have that Evite show up in (LINK) Facebook (http://www NULL.facebook NULL.com/) under the Events category in your profile.  (This is for you Suraya)

     After a little looking around I have come across the answer. To accomplish this you will need a an evite account (duh!), Gmail (https://accounts NULL.google NULL.com/ServiceLogin?service=mail&passive=true&rm=false&continue=https%3A%2F%2Fmail NULL.google NULL.com%2Fmail%2F&bsv=llya694le36z&ss=1&scc=1&ltmpl=default&ltmplcache=2&from=login) account, Facebook (duh! again) and the Facebook app called .ics to event (http://www NULL.facebook NULL.com/settings/?tab=applications#!/apps/application NULL.php?id=164414672850&sk=info).

 

Steps to Complete the Import

1 – Complete your Evite. When you get the confirmation that says “Thank you, your invitation was sent!”, click on “View this invitation”.

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***You will see a button for “Post to Facebook”, but that button only posts on your wall.

 

2 – Once your looking at your Evite, click on the “Add to Calendar”

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3 – You will now see a pop up that lists 4 different calendars you can save to. Select Google Calendar.

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4 – If you are already signed into Gmail or Google Calendar, it will go directly to your calendar. If you aren’t, you will be prompted to sign in. Once signed in you will see the Appointment. At this point click Save (from the top Left)

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5 – Now go to the top right and click on the nut, then select Calendar settings

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6 – In the Calendar setting, pick Calendars

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7 – You will now pick the Calendar that has the appointment (In case you have multiple calendars created)

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8 – Now scroll to the bottom of the page and you will see a Green Button that says ICAL. Click on the bottom Green ICAL button.

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9 – You will now see the link for your calendar. (*Link shown has been edited, what you will see will be longer). You need to highlight and copy link.

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10 – Now go to (LINK) iCalendar to Event (http://www NULL.facebook NULL.com/apps/application NULL.php?id=164414672850&sk=info) App on Facebook.

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11 – Lastly under Name of Subscription, enter the title you want shown on your events page. Then paste the address you copied on Google calendar.  REALLY BIG NOTE: You will need to remove the letter S from the http part of the address you posted. (Below is shown how it should look) Now click subscribe.

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12 – If you see this green bar appear, you have successfully added your Evite to your Facebook Events.

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Facebook: Check your FB setting for the People, Pages, Places Directory

facebook   The Facebook People, Pages, Places directory feature (LINK) https://www.facebook.com/directory/people/ (https://www NULL.facebook NULL.com/directory/people/) has been out now a couple of weeks, however I still find people that don’t know about it. If you were concerned about (hoping for) privacy, well this feature just pretty much ends any and all hope.  With the PPP directory Facebook has every user, page, place easily accessible to everyone.

     All you need to know is a name (or you can just throw in a fake name if you want to meet strangers).  The screen shot below is the current 1st page of the directory (as of 10/10/11)

 

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     Every user on Facebook is in this directory, and unfortunately (AGAIN!) Facebook does NOT give a way to completely opt out of being listed.  However, there is something you can do to limit your visibility in the Facebook PPP directory.

     There is now a setting (which seems to be set to Everyone by default) by going to your privacy settings (Top right of page) –> How You Connect (Bottom of page) as shown in the example below

 

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Once you are in the “How You Connect” window, you will see as the very 1st choice “Who can look up your timeline by name or contact info?”

 

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     Any Facebook user who is still trying to hold out for just that little bit of privacy while still being able to use Facebook will want to change the setting to Friends only, or Friends of Friends if you are ok with privacy middle ground.

     Making this change should limit your exposure from the PPP directory. As always its suggested that you look over all the settings under privacy (even make notes if you have a hard time remembering) on a regular basis, you never know when a setting could be changed or added “for your benefit” that you would rather not have.

Apple: Using an iPad 3G without getting a data plan (Basically Wi-Fi only mode)

apple  In this economy there are times where you just don’t want to pay for all the bells and whistles. People are always looking for a way to cut the “FAT” out of expenses.

One way to save a little is to not pay the ridiculous prices cell providers charge for data services. (Keep in mind, that some of you may be under a data contract that has REALLY HIGH PENALTIES if you cancel, so check how much its going to cost you before trying to get out of your data plan) For those that already have expired contracts or can get out of your data plan, you could be seeing $50 or more a month in savings while still being able to use your device via Wi-Fi.

The specific situation I will be addressing at this point comes because of helping a friend (Shannon this one is for you) that has a 3G iPad from Verizon that she would like to use but doesn’t need the 3G access.  Since the main uses for her iPad will be at home where she is already paying for internet (and has Wi-Fi) or maybe while out at Starbucks or McD’s.  The error / issue she was getting was an error message about “Needing access to her account”.  That message is because the 3G service is turned on with the iPad 3G by default.

 

So here is how you convert the iPad 3G in to a Wi-Fi iPad

 

Steps -

  1. Turn on your iPad. (Ok I know this one is obvious but I still have to include it)
  2. Go to the “Home” screen on your iPad.
  3. Tap “Settings” –> Then tap “Cellular Data”
  4. Change the selection that says “Cellular Data” to “Off” (3G service is now off)
  5. At this point, The iPad should automatically detect wireless networks (as long as you are somewhere that has Wi-Fi, so yes make sure you are in a Wi-Fi area)

                -> If your Wi-Fi (or the Wi-Fi in the area you are in) is secure, You may be asked to type in a username and password to connect, depending on the network security settings. .

6. That’s it, you should now be able to use your iPad with only Wi-Fi

 

Additional Notes -

  1. You may see random values displayed for Cellular Data in the General Settings when after you turn off cellular data. If you do you can ignore it. These numbers do not represent any real data being transferred (At the moment cant really explain why the numbers appear)
  2. Also Keep in mind these changes don’t have to be permanent, its just a matter if contacting your iPad provider and getting a data plan from them, then turning the Cellular Data back on to get your iPad back on a 3G data plan

 

How to check a shortened URL to see if it’s safe to click (From Tech and Life)

The following post comes from the Tech and Life blog (A friend of TGM) (LINK) http://www.techandlife.com/ (http://www NULL.techandlife NULL.com/). With the limitation of characters that you can use on Facebook and Twitter, one of the popular choices is the shorten the links you share. The problem is that by shorting links, it makes it harder to tell what are good links and what are links that you should avoid.  The original post for this story can be found at (LINK) http://www.techandlife.com/2011/08/how-to-check-a-shortened-url-to-see-if-its-safe-to-click/ (http://www NULL.techandlife NULL.com/2011/08/how-to-check-a-shortened-url-to-see-if-its-safe-to-click/).


Unshorten URL (http://www NULL.techandlife NULL.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Unshorten-URL NULL.jpg)

Yesterday I received email notification of a blog comment which I should check was spam and approve or trash. It looked like spam – a couple of words and a shortened URL. But was the link important or interesting? I was a little wary and knew that this could be a security risk, i.e. don’t click a link if you’re not sure where it’s leading or you don’t know the sender. If you come across a shortened URL on Twitter, you can hover your mouse over it and the full URL will often appear – but not always. So what can you do to check out a shortened URL before you click?

Unshorten the link

Paste the link into unfwd4.me (http://unfwd4 NULL.me/) or unshorten.com (http://unshorten NULL.com/) to see the full URL. You may then be able to decide if the link is reputable and worth following. Still unsure? Try the link scanners mentioned below.

Scan the link

Copy the shortened URL into LinkScanner Online (http://linkscanner NULL.explabs NULL.com/linkscanner/default NULL.aspx) or Online Link Scan (http://onlinelinkscan NULL.com/). They’ll scan the site and alert you if there may be a problem following the link. Or if you have time and want to try multiple antivirus engines, try the scanner at URLVoid (http://vscan NULL.urlvoid NULL.com/).

After you click the link

After you’ve decided to click, browser plugins like McAfee SiteAdvisor (http://www NULL.siteadvisor NULL.com/) and WOT (http://www NULL.mywot NULL.com/en/download) (Web of Trust) provide another tool you can use to alert you of known dubious or untrusted sites. I use McAfee and have found it to be fine. There are free and paid versions. The download link to the free limited version (SiteAdvisor) is currently at the bottom of their Downloads page. Web of Trust is also highly regarded in this fight against ‘clickjacking’ and avoiding malicious sites.

Software: What to do Before / During / After a Malware infection.

computer virus This Malware thing is becoming such a common issue that its driving me up the wall (In My opinion).  I’ve been ask by many customers if its just tech’s creating these malware infections for job security.  Let me tell you that I can promise you no tech worth his knowledge wants this kind of job security.  (End of my Soapbox)

So what do you do with your computer to give you a fighting chance?  Here is what you should do

Now that your pc is not infected

1 – Verify that you have “Fairly recent”* version of antivirus software installed, and that the AV software at is installed is running the latest Definitions possible.

a – *What do I mean by fairly recent, if you find your antivirus software and it says anything less than 2009 in the name (as in Norton 2005, McAfee 2003, etc.) then its to old.  Antivirus software that old will just not have the information needed to keep up with the ever changing landscape

b – If its older than 2009, then I recommend just uninstalling it, and downloading a free Antivirus offering.  (See the next answer for recommendation)

c – What if you find that you don’t even have antivirus installed or that the one you have is old.  I recommend visiting www.ninite.com (http://www NULL.ninite NULL.com).  There you will find a selection of Free Up to Date antivirus offerings.  There are a couple of offerings, I would recommend MSE (Microsoft Security Essentials), but you would not do bad with any of the ones listed.  Its at least better than the situation you were in.  All you need to do is put a check next to one you select, then at the bottom select “Get Installer”, and hit run when prompted.  It should download and install it for you.

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**Remember to uninstall any old antivirus before installing its replacement, as pc’s don’t like to have 2 AV software running at the same time.

2 – Now that we have the AV situation address, you now need to add 2 pieces of free software to your install.  It is hoped that you never need to use them but it makes life much easier if you install them now, before you get infected.  (Think about it like car insurance, you don’t want to try and get the insurance after crash, same thing applies here for the software).

a – Go back to www.ninite.com (http://www NULL.ninite NULL.com) and select Malwarebytes and SuperAntiSpyware. Click on the “Get Installer” button at the bottom and then click run when prompted.  That should install both.

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b – Once installed you want to open each of the 2 programs you just installed at least once to make sure they installed correctly, and also to update the programs to the latest definition files. You should also run a full scan with each of the 2 programs on all hard drives.  To make sure that nothing is hiding in your system.

c – If either Malwarebytes or SuperAntiSpyware finds anything during its scans it will tell you at the end and very simply help you clean up your pc.  (Just select the infected files found and select remove infected)

3 -   Lastly, go back to www.ninite.com (http://www NULL.ninite NULL.com) , and select the following files

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  • QuickTime
  • Flash
  • Flash (IE)
  • Java
  • .NET
  • Silverlight
  • Air
  • Adobe Reader

These are all programs that most average users have installed, and vulnerabilities in old versions of these programs are some of the most common ways that many of the bad guys use to infect pc’s. Once you have all of these selected, click on “Get Installer” and then click on run when prompted.

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You may notice that I list www.ninite.com (http://www NULL.ninite NULL.com) a lot in the options above.  Just to make it clear, Tech Geek and More has no direct or indirect participation with ninite.  Ninite is just a TGM recommended site, because they make updates simple, opposed to having to visit multiple sites to get the the updates accomplished. In addition, TGM appreciates the fact that when you install these programs via Ninite, they do not install Toolbars, or other junk that drives all Techs crazy (as we have to constantly uninstall Junk).

 

What to do once you do get infected

Unfortunately, even with taking every precaution imaginable its still possible to get infected. At the point of being infect here is what you need to do

1 – DON’T PANIC! (Seriously, if you panic you will not remember to follow the following steps and will probably make things worse)

2 – Immediately shut down the pc.

a – Try to do it by clicking on Start – Shutdown – Shutdown on the screen and if that doesn’t work, then just hold the power button on the pc until the pc powers off.

3 – Once the pc is off, power it back on and as soon as pc starts to boot press F8 over and over, until you get to the safe mode screen choices, use the up/down arrow to select safe mode with networking and hit enter

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**Keep in mind that in safe mode your pc will look a little “odd”, that is normal.**

4 – Once you get into your pc, Go to start –> settings –> control panel –> and click on internet options –> then go to connections tab –> and click on LAN settings (toward bottom) and make sure nothing in that window is checked, if it is uncheck it, then click ok

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5 – At this point if you have not installed SuperAntiSpyware or Malwarebytes, go to Step#2 under “Now that your pc is not infected” (above) and follow those steps to install both programs.

6 – Once installed, start by running SuperAntispyware, and when prompted select yes to update definition files. Once definitions are updated, run a Full Scan on all your Hard Drives (That would be any drive that doesn’t hold a CD or DVD).

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The scan will probably take 1 hour on most average sized drives (Average = 320 gig drives). Once scan is completed, select all files that show infected and then click on remove select.  That covers part of the process.  Now to the next part.

DO NOT REBOOT IF PROMPTED

7 – Now start Malwarebytes, and when prompted say yes to updating the definition file.

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8 – Once updated, select Perform full scan and hit select

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You will then be asked to select your drives, select all drives that don’t use CD or DVD and press Scan

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The scan will probably take 1 hour on most average sized drives (Average = 320 gig drives). Once scan is completed, select all files that show infected and then click on remove select.  That covers part of the process.  Now to the next part.

IF PROMPTED AGAIN –> DO NOT REBOOT
9 – Now in Windows –> Go to start –> run –> and type msconfig
a – This opens the msconfig window.  Under the start up tab –> Uncheck all items listed.  (DO NOT touch any of the other tabs) and click ok.

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IF PROMPTED TO REBOOT –> AGAIN SAY NO

There is 1 more step.
10 – Open up My computer and go to –> c:\ drive –> windows folder –> system32 folder –> drivers folder –> etc. folder and in that location find a file called hosts and double click it, when prompted select to open with notepad.

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Once the file opens look for the following line “#    127.0.0.1       localhost”

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As shown in the example anything below the 1st 127.0.0.1 needs to be deleted.  Then save your changes by clicking on File –> Save.

Once you have done all this reboot.

After the clean up in safe mode

After the clean up in safe mode, and the reboot, there are still a couple of things you need to do.

1 – You will need to reinstall your Antivirus product.  If you were infected, there is a chance that your AV product is compromised, if nothing else, it just makes sure its complete or gives you a choice to pick a new AV package. This is especially important if your AV software is a few years old.  Make sure to uninstall then reinstall.

2 – Using the Step#3 in the “Now that your pc is not infected” section. Make sure you update the programs listed in that section.

With that you should be back up and running.

Hardware: How to resolve SD Card issues (In Windows)

image I ran into an issue this week when I attempted to format an 8 GB High Capacity SD Card inside of a camera and it failed to format. I then put the SD card in a pc and attempted the format from the pc only to receive and error and be unable to format the SD card.

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The pc would report that the SD card was not formatted and needed to be.  When I attempted to format on the pc, I would get an error that said “Failed to format the device”

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In doing some research on this issue I discovered that there is an SD Association (Link: http://www.sdcard.org (http://www NULL.sdcard NULL.org)) and they have a free Program specially designed to format SD/SDHC/SDXC cards.  The program called SD Formatter has the following advantage (From the SD Association Page)

This software formats all SD memory cards, SDHC memory cards and SDXC memory cards that comply with the SD File System Specification. SD Formatter provides quick and easy access to your SD, SDHC and SDXC memory cards.

The SD Formatter was created specifically for SD/SDHC/SDXC Cards. It is strongly recommended to use the SD Formatter instead of formatting utilities provided with operating systems which format various types of storage media. These generic utilities may result in less than optimal performance for SD/SDHC/SDXC Cards.

So I downloaded the program called SD Formatter 3 and tried it on ,my SD card. Here are the steps for using SD Formatter -

- The application initializes with just one small screen.

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- First, select the drive containing the card you wish to format. Likely, this will be E or F for most Windows users. Notice that when you select the drive, the size of the SD disk appears just below the selection. For the 4GB card used in this example, the size is recognized as 3.68 GB. (No Matter what size SD card you use, the size will report just a little bit smaller due to formatting requirements).

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- Next, click Option to select how you want the SD card formatted. A dialogue box appears with a dropdown menu listing three “format type” options.

  • The first, Quick, is simply a standard wipe of the disk—all data currently on the disk will be erased.
  • The second, Full (Erase), will put the disk into a proper SD format, be aware that even though this lists as Erase because it does a simple delete vs. overwrite, it may still be possible (Its not easy but could be done) to recover the files that were on the drive.
  • The third option, Full (OverWrite),—is the option you will want to use most often, as it formats the card properly, while giving it a fresh start with no old data left on the disk at all. Not all cards support this, but if you choose this and the card does not support the option, the formatter automatically reverts to the second “erase off” option during the formatting process. (NOTE: With this option, when its gone, its gone!)

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- Under the Format Type dropdown menu is a second menu called “format size adjustment” that asks if you want to try to increase the amount of space on your SD card or not. Turning this option on will allow you to use the maximum space possible on your SD card. Once you have made your selection, click OK.

option 2 - SD Formatter

- You will be brought back to the original formatter screen where it should display the options you just selected:

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-  Click Format. If you select Quick you will be informed that “Data may be retrieved after quick format. Meaning that it will not completely overwrite what is on the card. (However, you will need special recovery software to retrieve files from the card as all the pointers that would show you the files when you look at the drive will be removed, so the card will appear blank) Click OK

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- Finally after that you will be asked one last time if you are sure you want to do this. If you are sure, click OK.

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- A new dialogue box then displays the status of your formatting efforts. For the options selected above, it first erases all files from the disk, then formats it. If you are using a larger disk, as in this example, this process will take a few minutes. Do not turn off your computer or remove the disk until the entire process is complete.

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When complete, a dialogue box appears telling you the results of the formatting process.

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With that you should now have a very usable SD card.

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